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A Nova Scotia Ninian Walk

Would you like to join a group walking from Pomquet Beach to St Ninian’s Cathedral, Antigonish, linking South-West Scotland to Nova Scotia and remembering an ancient Celtic saint on his feast day? If so, contact Dr Matthew Anderson of Saint Francis Xavier University, Antigonish.

Saturday Sept 14, 2024 we’ll start from Pomquet Beach and head to Lower South River. On Sun Sept 15 we leave from Lower South River to St Ninian’s Cathedral to arrive in time for the 150th anniversary celebration. (This is an ecumenical pilgrimage, open for everyone, not just Catholics). On Saturday we will stop by Ste-Croix Church in Pomquet and have lunch at the Musée de Pomquet as we pass.

The walk is 23 km in total (17 Sat, 5 Sun). For more info see the FAQ sheet below. To sign up, contact Dr Matthew Anderson, Gatto Chair of Christian Studies at Saint Francis Xavier University, at manderso (at) stfx (dot) ca. Please also check out the three videos giving background information on Ninian, the Walks, and Antigonish’s Ninian connections!

Dr Anderson walked the Whithorn Way, the Scottish pilgrimage to St Ninian, in 2019. His book about that walk and this Nova Scotian trek will come out with Pottersfield Press in 2025.

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Walking the Celtic Shores

“Take a picture of your father,” I said. “Something nice,” I said.

One of the frustrations I had while being the part-time director of Camino Nova Scotia was leading pilgrimages I couldn’t actually walk! I schlepped bags, drove, unlocked and cleaned halls, and cooked for the pilgrims who had signed up. All the while wishing I could walk the trails in Nova Scotia myself.

So this spring, when my youngest from Montreal suggested a “long walk with papa” I jumped at the chance. We finally settled on the Celtic Shores Trail in south-west Cape Breton. It was close to home, and because of the SATbus (Strait Area Transit) I was able to plan a way we could leave a car at the end of each day’s walk and still get back to the start point. (Although it meant some VERY early mornings by the end).

All told, we walked from Troy to Inverness. We had a WONDERFUL time, met lots of folks (although only one other distance walker on the trail), ate tons of sea-food, listened to Cape Breton fiddle music, chatted all day as we walked, and swam in the ocean.

I highly recommend this trail, and the use of the SATbus to coordinate getting back to a car at the end of each day.

Some tips: check the “take a break” walkers’ benches for wasps’ nests…before sitting down! Note that the SATbus doesn’t run weekends, and must be booked in advance. Check out the Ceilidh Fishers’ Coop in Port Hood for fresh seafood and to report your progress to a local trail volunteer. Bring bug spray (although they weren’t bad for us this time around), sunscreen, and rain-gear. We had bear-spray. Thankfully we didn’t encounter any, but we saw some fresh scat. Especially if walking on a weekend, keep your eyes open for four-wheelers, which are a far greater concern. And have fun!

Our stationary Air B&B RV in Craigmore, NS